A visit to Naxos Town:The Portara at Sunset and Where to Eat Afterwards
There are plenty of reasons to spend time in Naxos Town, or Chora as it is known locally. It is where the ferries arrive, where the tiny lanes of the old town wind uphill towards the Kastro, and where you can find everything from a quick coffee to a long, lazy supper.
But there is one particular Naxos Town evening we always recommend: a wander through Chora, sunset at the Portara, then dinner somewhere nearby. It is simple, easy and one of those holiday evenings that seems to contain everything you came to Greece for.
Start with a wander through Chora
We would suggest exploring Chora either in the morning or after about 6pm. Many of the smaller shops shut for the afternoon, and in high summer the lanes can become very hot in the middle of the day.
The evening is especially lovely: the heat begins to lift, the shops reopen, people start to come out for a drink or supper, and the town has a much more relaxed feel.
Give yourself plenty of time before sunset to explore the old town. Do not worry too much about having a route. The joy of Chora is getting a little lost.
Wander through the narrow whitewashed streets, look into the small shops, stop for a cold drink, and keep heading uphill towards the Kastro. There are little arches, cats asleep in doorways, old Venetian buildings and glimpses of the sea at the end of unexpected lanes.
You do not need a full day to see Chora, but you do need to slow down. It is not somewhere to rush through with a checklist.
Shopping in Chora is also part of the pleasure. There are some really gorgeous jewellery designers tucked away in the back streets, with pieces that feel much more special than a standard holiday souvenir.
Do seek out Morthes, a lovely handmade pottery shop in the old market. The ceramics are beautiful, useful and properly individual — and Steven the cat tends to rule the roost, usually from the best possible spot in the shop.
Go up to the Kastro
Before heading down towards the Portara, make time to walk up to the Kastro, Naxos Town’s old Venetian castle. The lanes become quieter as you climb, and there are wonderful views over the rooftops, harbour and sea.
It is also a lovely area for small galleries, independent shops and little corners that feel very different from the busy waterfront. You do not need a plan — just follow the lanes uphill and see where you end up.
Walk to the Portara for sunset
About 30 to 45 minutes before sunset, make your way down towards the harbour and follow the causeway out to the Portara.
The Portara is the enormous marble gateway that stands alone on the little island opposite the port. It is one of those places that is photographed constantly, but it is still genuinely striking when you see it in real life.
The walk out is easy and takes only a few minutes, although the ground becomes uneven once you reach the island itself, so sensible shoes are helpful. You do not need walking boots, but perhaps avoid very high sandals after a glass of wine.
At sunset, the place is busy. There will be couples, families, people taking photographs, people trying to frame the sun exactly inside the gateway, and often groups of teenagers sitting on the rocks. That is part of it.
Do not expect to have the Portara to yourself in July or August. Instead, find a spot slightly away from the main crowd, sit down if you can, and enjoy the changing colour of the sky. The sun sets behind the sea, the gateway turns into a dark silhouette, and the lights of Chora begin to come on behind you. It is a very good moment to remember that you are on holiday.
A few practical Portara tips
Arrive a little before sunset rather than at the last minute, particularly in high season.
Take water. Even in the evening, the heat can linger.
The path is paved on the way across but can be uneven around the monument itself.
Do not feel you need to stand right in front of the gateway. Some of the loveliest views are looking back towards the town, the harbour and the ferries.
And, in truth, the best part often comes after the sun has disappeared. Many people leave straight away, but stay for ten minutes longer if you can. The sky softens, the crowds thin out and Chora starts to feel like an evening town rather than a sightseeing stop.
Where to eat, drink and carry on afterwards
Naxos Town is full of places to eat. There are some excellent tavernas along the Paralia, or waterfront, and most are genuinely good, with fresh food, friendly service and a lovely harbour view.
Do not feel you have to choose the flashiest or most expensive-looking bar, though. You can eat very well in Chora without overpaying. The little back streets are full of good tavernas too. Wander slightly away from the waterfront, look for somewhere busy, and choose a place that feels relaxed rather than overly polished.
For lunch or pre-dinner drinks: Bossa
Bossa is a lovely place for lunch, or for a drink before dinner. It is relaxed, stylish without trying too hard, and a good spot to sit and watch Naxos Town starting to come alive in the evening. It works particularly well after a walk around the old town, or before heading to the Portara for sunset.
For sunset, a view and dancing: Flamingo
Flamingo is the place to go if you want more of a night out. It has a great view, a lovely sunset position, drinks, music and dancing later on.
It is about atmosphere — especially if you fancy dressing up a little, watching the sun go down with a cocktail, then staying on when the music starts.
For a traditional, affordable meal:
Barabbas – particularly good for fish, slow-cooked dishes and local wine.
To Elliniko – good, traditional Greek food and a reliable choice for a proper supper
Doukato – in the old town, good for a more atmospheric meal in the lanes.
Maru’s - towards George’s beach
Metaxi Mas, near Naxos Café, is a lovely choice for traditional food with tables spilling into the old-town lanes.
For dessert, football and cocktails: Panteboy’s
Panteboy’s is a fun place to end the evening, especially if you fancy dessert, a cocktail or want to catch football on a screen. It has an easy, lively atmosphere and is ideal when you are not quite ready to go home after dinner.
Its name comes from the Greek word ΡΑΝΤΕΒΟΥ, meaning a rendezvous or meeting place. Written in Greek capitals, it can look like “PANTEBOYS” at first glance. It feels exactly right: somewhere to meet friends, have a drink, share dessert and stay a little longer.
For traditional music and late-night atmosphere:
Naxos Café: For a more traditional late-night Naxos experience, try Naxos Café. It has proper local character, Greek music and a relaxed, atmospheric feel that makes it a lovely place to end the night. Or a different atmosphere at
Noto:. It is a tucked-away old-town bar with a cosy courtyard, little tables in the lanes, and a roof terrace looking towards the Kastro. Think bougainvillea, yellow doors, good cocktails using local flavours such as kitron, and a relaxed place to linger rather than a loud late-night bar.
It is a good reminder that Chora is not only about pretty lanes and sunset photographs. It is a real, lively town — and the later you stay, the more you feel that.